30 January 2010

Homemade is better

We tried something new this last week, and I suspect we'll never ever ever go back to what we used to know. I've been on this kick where I feel like I should be making more of what we eat instead of buying it prepackaged. You may have seen my "Organic Foods" post on my other blog that is completely related to my current experiment. Foods that are whole, pure, and as good as I can get them at this season in this part of the country. As a result I've made cheez-its at home this week as well as a handful of other things, and this morning I bought the pasta roller and cutter attachments for my Kitchen-Aid. I'm gung-ho, and I think we're going to eat better, healthier, and more cost-effectively this way. I'll keep you updated on future experiments, as well as share recipes we particularly enjoy.

This week's amazing victory was s'mores. Yes, homemade s'mores. Yes, completely homemade s'mores. The graham crackers were a little chewier than I was expecting, but I think I could have rolled them thinner to avoid that. The chewiness made them perfect with the marshmallows, though. Just so we're clear, home-made marshmallows are amazing, and far superior in both taste and texture to their store-bagged counterparts. And, as long as you're willing to not touch the marshmallows with your fingers during preparation, they are simple to make, especially with a stand mixer. Finger touching will, inevitably, lead to strings of marshmallow web on everything you touch, including your face, eyelashes, and hair. I successfully heeded the counsel of others in this respect, and I now pass it on to you. I will admit that I did not make the chocolate sauce from scratch because we had some chocolate chips that needed to be used and I was without heavy cream. The ganache would have been better, but I did what I could. Just melt a half-cup of those chocolate bits down with a teaspoon or so of lard (YES, I used lard in cooking; so sue me) and the chocolate sauce is ready to go. Here's the recipe and photo; they were simply amazing. Keep in mind that they both take some chilling time, so plan ahead if you're going to use them.


Graham Crackers
Adapted from Nancy Silverton’s Pastries from the La Brea Bakery

Makes 48 2-inch squares

2 cups plus 2 tablespoons unbleached all-purpose flour
1/2 cup with whole wheat flour
1 cup brown sugar, lightly packed
1 teaspoon baking soda
3/4 teaspoon kosher or coarse sea salt
7 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into 1-inch cubes and frozen
1/3 cup mild-flavored honey, such as clover
1 Tbsp molasses (optional—it gives a nice dark bite that I loved)
5 tablespoons milk
2 tablespoons pure vanilla extract

Topping (optional)
1 1/2 tablespoons granulated sugar
1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon

Make the dough: Combine the flour, brown sugar, baking soda, and salt in the bowl of a food processor fitted with the steel blade or in the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment. Pulse or mix on low to incorporate. Add the butter and pulse on and off on and off, or mix on low, until the mixture is the consistency of a coarse meal.

If you don't have a food processor or electric mixer, you can cut the ingredients together with a pastry blender. Just make sure they're very well incorporated.

In a small bowl, whisk together the honey, molasses, milk, and vanilla extract. Add to the flour mixture and pulse on and off a few times or mix on low until the dough barely comes together. It will be very soft and sticky. Lay out a large piece of plastic wrap and dust it lightly with flour, then turn the dough out onto it and pat it into a rectangle about 1-inch thick. Wrap it, then chill it until firm, at least 2 hours. Meanwhile, prepare the topping, if using, by combining the sugar and cinnamon in a small bowl and setting aside.

Roll out the crackers: Divide the dough in half and return one half to the refrigerator. Sift an even layer of flour onto the work surface and roll the dough into a long rectangle about 1/8 inch thick. The thinner it is, the crispier your crackers will be. The dough will be sticky, so flour as necessary. Cut into 2-inch squares using a fluted pastry wheel or pizza cutter.

Place the crackers on one or two parchment-lined baking sheets and sprinkle with the topping. Be sure to space them well or they will bake together, and no one wants that. Chill until firm, about 30 to 45 minutes in the fridge or 15 to 20 minutes in the freezer. Repeat with the second batch of dough. Finally, gather any scraps together into a ball, chill until firm, and re-roll.

Adjust the oven rack to the upper and lower positions and preheat the oven to 350°F.

Decorate the crackers: Using a toothpick or skewer (I like the blunt end of a wooden skewer for more dramatic dots) prick the dough to form a pattern of dots. Don't skip this step or your crackers will puff more than they should.

Bake for 15 to 25 minutes, until browned and slightly firm to the touch, rotating the sheets halfway through to ensure even baking. Remove to racks to cool, and store in an airtight container at room temperature.

Marshmallows
Adapted from Gourmet, December 1998

Makes about 96 1-inch cubed marshmallows

About 1 cup confectioners’ sugar
3 1/2 envelopes (2 tablespoons plus 2 1/2 teaspoons) unflavored gelatin
1 cup cold water, divided
2 cups granulated sugar
1/2 cup light corn syrup
1/4 teaspoon salt
2 large egg whites
1 tablespoon vanilla (alternately: 1/2 of a scraped vanilla bean, 2 teaspoons almond or mint extract or maybe even some food coloring for tinting)

Oil bottom and sides of a 13- by 9- by 2-inch rectangular metal baking pan and dust bottom and sides with some confectioners’ sugar. Do it well, being careful not to leave any gaps.

In bowl of a standing electric mixer or in a large bowl sprinkle gelatin over 1/2 cup cold cold water, and let stand to soften.

In a 3-quart heavy saucepan cook granulated sugar, corn syrup, second 1/2 cup of cold water, and salt over low heat, stirring with a wooden spoon, until sugar is dissolved. Increase heat to moderate and boil mixture, without stirring, until a candy or digital thermometer registers 240°F, about 12 minutes. Remove pan from heat and pour sugar mixture over gelatin mixture, stirring until gelatin is dissolved.

With standing or a hand-held electric mixer beat mixture on high speed until white, thick, and nearly tripled in volume, about six minutes if using standing mixer or about 10 minutes if using hand-held mixer. This is one of the most amazing chemical/physical changes I've ever witnessed in my culinary experience.

In separate medium bowl with cleaned beaters beat egg whites until they just hold stiff peaks. Beat whites and vanilla (or your choice of flavoring) into sugar mixture until just combined. Pour mixture into baking pan and don’t go crazy about getting it all out—you won't. Sift 1/4 cup confectioners sugar evenly over top. Chill marshmallow, uncovered, until firm, at least three hours.

Run a thin knife around edges of pan and invert pan onto a large cutting board. Lifting up one corner of inverted pan, with fingers loosen marshmallow and ease onto cutting board. With a large knife or oiled pizza cutter trim edges of marshmallow and cut marshmallow into roughly one-inch cubes. Sift remaining confectioners’ sugar back into your now-empty baking pan, and roll the marshmallows through it, on all six sides, before shaking off the excess and packing them away. Make sure you don't neglect covering them in sugar–if you don't do it, they'll stick to each and everything else.

These kept about a week in a zip-top bag for us.

S'mores
Do I really need to tell you how to put together a s'more? I thought not.

18 January 2010

Ptich'e Moloko (Bird Milk Torte)


Diana and I decided on Saturday, that for our MLK holiday celebration, we would make a Russian Bird Milk Torte. Apparently this is a very popular Russian treat and hard to get the recipe for. Anyway, we haven't tasted it yet, but each of the individual parts were delicious, so, we assume all together they will be great. I thought you might want the recipe, so I will do the best I can to put it down as I remember...

Bird Milk Torte

Cake:

2 cups flour
6 eggs (divided--whites and yolks)
1 cup sugar
1 cube softened butter

Cream butter and sugar. Add egg yolks one at a time and cream. Mix in 1 cup of flour. Meanwhile, in a separate bowl, beat the egg whites until very stiff. Fold the egg whites into the batter. Then gently mix in the other cup of flour. Bake in a greased round cake pan (we used our cast iron fry pan) at 350 degrees for about 30-35 minutes until the cake is done in the middle and the top is lightly browned.
When done, the cake has a kind of corn bread consistency.

While the cake is cooking, make the "pudding".

Pudding

2 cups milk
3 T cream of wheat or farina
1 cup sugar
2 cubes butter (that's right, one cup of butter, oh yea, softened)
2 bananas
white chocolate-grated (I think we used about 1/2 a symphony bar--the large one)--well, actually we used a white chocolate bar Diana had brought with her from Russia.

Heat the milk in a saucepan until warm, then, while stirring add the farina. Stir and cook over low heat until thick and creamy (we did it for about 15 minutes). Turn off the heat Then stir in the 1 cup sugar (we ended up using only 3/4 cup)continue stirring until the sugar is dissolved in the cereal. Put in a bowl, then into the freezer to cool.

Cut up the bananas in small pieces into a mixing bowl.

Now, do your dishes and wait for the pudding to cool and the cake to cook.

When the cake is done, remove it from the pan, cut in half lengthwise (so you have two round pieces) and let cool. Meanwhile take the pudding from the freezer, put into the mixer bowl and add the 2 cubes of butter. Mix well, until fluffy (longer than you think). Remove about a cup of pudding stuff and add it to the bananas. Mix the bananas and pudding stuff well with the mixer then add in the grated chocolate.

When the cake is cooled, spread the banana/chocolate/pudding mixture on the bottom piece of cake. Put the other piece of cake over it. (If you have left over, just add it to the other pudding, which you will now spread over the top and sides of the cake.

After the cake is "frosted" with the pudding, cover it with chocolate glaze.

Glaze

about 1 cup of chocolate chips (we used some special dark and some semi sweet). Melt in a double boiler with about 2 Tablespoons of milk. When chocolate is warm and gooey, stir until you have a smooth glaze. Pour over top of cake. Spread, if you like (Diana liked to spread). Refrigerate until ready to serve.

We'll take a picture in a minute and post it for you.

10 January 2010

Easy chicken stew

Yesterday I filled a raincheck for 30 pounds of chicken thighs. That was also the day that thermometer read -11˚F before windchill at 8 am. Those two things together yielded the culinary winter haven that was tonight's dinner.

I love chicken thighs because they are rather juicier and more flavorful than breasts, and are large enough to constitute an actual serving, a opposed to wings or legs, which are mostly bone and, quite, frankly, more like chicken novelty than actual food. They're also a little more calorie-laden than their drier, whiter sisters, but that's a sacrifice I don't mind making these days, especially when they're less than $1/pound. This recipe is my hearty, slightly more virile version of the Coq au Vin I served on Christmas Day. It's not nearly so fussy, time consuming, or rich, but that's okay, because it's delicious, and easily adaptable to any size family. It's also easy and takes only about an hour, start to finish.

Easy Chicken Stew
based loosely on Julia Child's Coq au Vin from Mastering the Art of French Cooking

For every (adult) person you want to serve, use the following:

1 chicken thigh, skin removed
1/4 onion, roughly chopped
1 small to medium red potato, chopped
1/2 carrot, chopped
3 large mushrooms, quartered (optional)
1 clove garlic, chopped or crushed
1-1 1/2 tsp Herbes de Provence
1 1/2 cups beef (YES BEEF!) broth.

You'll also need:
Salt and Pepper to taste
1 bay leaf
2 Tbsp butter, softened
3 Tbsp flour

I made for 4, so I used 4 thighs, 1 onion, 4 potatoes, 2 carrots, 4 cloves garlic, 1 1/2 Tbsp Herbes, and 6 cups broth for my family of 2 adults and 3 ravenous children. It was enough, but it was gone when we were done.

Heat about a tablespoon of oil in a large, thick pot with a lid (I use Grandma's cast iron 8" chicken pot) over medium high heat. Season the chicken with salt and pepper, then brown in the pan, about 2 minutes per side. Remove chicken from pan. Add vegetables to pan, season with Herbes, add garlic and bay leaf, then place chicken back on top. Pour broth over the top until it roughly covers the chicken. You might need a little more or a little less depending on how much you're making, and the size and shape of your pot. Bring to boiling. Reduce heat to medium low, cover, and simmer for 45-60 minutes, at least until the chicken is cooked through and vegetables are soft.

(At this point you could cool it and store it in the refrigerator for later, even overnight of you'd like. It's a great make-ahead meal. Then just reheat and pick up with the next paragraph. Now back to our regularly scheduled programming.)

About 10 minutes before serving, remove the chicken to a platter. Combine softened butter and flour into a smooth paste, then stir into the vegetable and broth in the pot. Cook and stir at a gentle simmer until thickened. Return chicken to pot, heat thoroughly, and serve. Yield 1 thigh with veggies and gravy for each person, and it's to die for, especially on a cold winter day like today.

Notes (a.k.a. in case you were wondering . . .)

*Make sure your pot is big enough for a large stew. You don't want to make a mess.
*I deboned the chicken while the gravy was thickening for ease of eating, but you can do it before cooking or not at all if you choose.
*Herbes de Provence are not as easy to find as they should be. You can substitute thyme, rosemary, oregano or a combination of any of those, but the lavender in the Herbes is amazing, so I highly recommend including it if you can.
* If you use more than 6 cups broth, you may need to increase the amount of butter and flour to ensure a good thickening.